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Sunday, May 31, 2009

Inbox


Some recent questions have been about particular places to stay, and I offer them here now, perhaps they will be of interest or help to you.



Q: Just came across your site while looking for info about the Stresa-Mottarone cable car. We are taking our first trip to Lake Maggiore in the summer with our 3 children and are looking for good ideas for things to do. Your site is great, really good ideas and very helpful - thanks! Now have a long list of things we want to do!

We are staying just outside Verbania at the Isolino camping village and I was wondering how easy it is to get into Stresa from there? We are arriving by train and have not yet decided whether we need to hire a car to get about.

A: Isolino is well located, but it's not really precisely in any of the towns. It's inbetween several lovely ones, Verbania, Baveno, Mergozzo, and of course, Stresa. Isolino is about 2 km from the train station. The bus stop, Verbania Fondotoce, is closer, but still 1 mile from Isolino. You can use the bus to get to many of the towns in the area, including Stresa, maybe you saw that link... You can also take the ferries between certain towns, and I hope you do that also. There is parking at Isolino. A car would certainly offer you more flexibility, and allow you to do more. Parking in the other towns during summer months may be difficult, but not impossible.

This reader's question gives the opportunity to bring Isolino Camping Village to your attention. Isolino is a large, family-oriented holiday village on its own private stretch of lake beachfront in Verbania. It offers residences of all sizes, from tent sites to caravans to small apartments. There are full amenities including restaurants and shops, and a very full range of activities. For families with children (this reader's are 6, 9, and 11) Isolino could be a truly ideal choice.

Aerial view of Isolino Camping Village in Verbania.

*****

Q: The Hotel Belvedere gets high recommendations online with amazing views and helpful staff. But I am afraid we will be constrained by being on an island and it may cost us a lot to keep getting to shore. One of the former guests indicated that there is a "3-day ferry pass." Is this available? Is it convenient….does the ferry run all day and into the evening?

A: Regarding staying at Hotel Belvedere on Isola dei Pescatori, I think it is a very personal decision whether to stay on the island or the mainland. But to help you decide I will tell you these things. The island is very very small. There are two hotels and several restaurants. There is not much else to do. Therefore, if you are a traveler who will enjoy this solitude in the evenings this will be very special. But if you don't like to feel so isolated, perhaps this isn't the best choice.

As for the ferries, as Hotel Belvedere cautions on their own site, the ferries do not run in the evenings, past 6:30 actually, and so all comings and goings to the island would have to be arranged with private water taxis. And unfortunately, to the best of my knowledge, there is not a three-day ferry pass available. There is a one-day pass available for unlimited travel between the three islands and Stresa, for 12 euro. You can refer to the ferry schedule here.

Albergo Ristorante Belvedere is a very lovely spot on tiny Isola dei Pescatori. The restaurant seats about 200, but the hotel only has a few rooms. Even if you're not staying on the island it could be a wonderful lunch spot, as they specialize in local fish and cuisine.Whether this is the right place for you to stay however, is a personal choice, you can visit Belvedere here to help you decide.

The beautiful outdoor dining veranda at Albergo Ristorante Belvedere.

Aerial view courtesy of Isolino Web site.
Hotel Belvedere photo courtesy of Hotel Belvedere Web site.


Wednesday, May 27, 2009

Chiesa di Santi Gervasio e Protasio -- Baveno's Parish Church


While waiting for the boat in Baveno I had enough time to wander up to Baveno's parish chiesa, its church, SS Gervasio and Protasio, which is only a couple of streets from the imbarcadero. Turn inland at via Monte Grappa and take a little walk up the long flight of stairs; it's well worth a look around. Although the buildings were built in different centuries, they blend together nicely.

This is the view from the top of the staircase.


The oldest part is the Romanesque church and tower, which dates from the XII century. The church retains its original plain facade, go close and look, the facade contains some Roman tombstones which were uncovered when the building was constructed. Can you see the one to the left of the door? It reads, "Trophimus Daphidianus servo di Tiberio Claudio Cesare Augusto. Sacro alla Memoria Eterna"

The baptistery, next door, octagonal in shape, is built on the foundation of a fifth century structure, but dates from the sixteenth century and boasts some beautiful renaissance frescos.

Turning to my left I can enter this portico, which was added in the eighteenth century, creating an inner courtyard area. The baptistery and tower are behind me in this view.

Between the arches delicately colored frescoes depict the stations of the cross.

This photo, taken a different day, shows the tower and Baveno's waterfront as seen from the lake, with the mountain of Baveno pink granite in the background.

And just who were Gervasio and Protasio anyway? They were brothers, Christian martyrs, who lived and died in Milan in the second century. They are patron saints of Milan, as well as of haymakers. This fourteenth century french manuscript drawing depicts their martyrdom.
Manuscript drawing Wikipedia.

Saturday, May 23, 2009

Isola Bella, Beautiful Island -- A Little Background

In 1690, this is what Isola Bella looked liked from Stresa. Stresa is much changed; the island, not at all.

Isola Bella, beautiful island... It is, hands down, the main attraction to see when visiting the Stresa/Borromean Gulf area, and yet, ever since its construction in the late 1600s, it has received some pretty horrible reviews. There were some harsh critics, even then, here's what a few of them published about the island in their travel books:

Danish writer Friederike Brun, who visited in 1795, likened Isola Bella to a mushroom emerging from the water, and the garden to an "oversized cake."

William Hazlitt, in 1826, wrote he was "Utterly disappointed in the Borromean Isles. Isola Bella resembles a pyramid of sweetmeats ornamented with green festoons and flowers."

Joseph Woods wrote in 1810, "Isola Bella contains a magnificent villa of the Borromean family, in sublime bad taste both inside and out. "

Jacques Augustin Galiffe, in 1816, "Isola Bella is altogether artificial, and contains a large but ill-looking palace in the worst architectural taste..."

And take a look at this excerpt, written by Richard Bagot, in his 1908 book, The Lakes of Northern Italy:



Wow. But these descriptions, while certainly the opinions of the individual writers, for the most part can be said to be true. From a distance or close up, the palace and the gardens are completely out of scale, they seem to overflow the island on all sides. In between, where the Borromeans never succeeded in purchasing the land, the original medieval village still exists, wrapped over the palace as if it grew there, although in reality it was the palace that grew around the village.

Isola Bella looks today exactly as it did 300 years ago.

In this aerial view, the medieval village can be seen on the left, seemingly climbing up the palace.

The plans for the island began simply enough:

Carlo Borromeo the Third bought the city of Stresa, and with it, some of the land on the island called Isola Inferiore, in 1630. A plan drawn in 1631 has this note written by him in the margin, "Plan of a small house, on Isola Inferiore in Lago Maggiore, and thus from now on the island will be called Isabella, since it is made to create a delightful garden of citrus and flowers and a residence for the pleasure and recreation of my lady the Countess Donna Isabella."

It was when Vitaliano the Sixth took over though, that the current vision began to take shape. And here's the thing, the thing that redeems the island, that takes it from garish ostentation to whimsy and, if not quite beauty, then at least fascination. The creation was always intended to entertain. Okay, certainly also to demonstrate the money and power of the Borromeo family, but its primary purpose, as thought out by Vitaliano, was to be a playground for the many noble guests who would visit it. It was meant to be a vision, an idea, over the top. It was he, working with noted architects of the day, who thought up the shell grotto, the ten-tiered garden, and the addition of the many symbolic and fanciful statues. In fact, it was decided that certain statues should be larger than originally intended, so that guests would have a more impressive approach to the island and recognize the statues sooner. Then, a further thought, it wasn't acceptable that guests would see only the backs of statues depending upon where they approached from, and at this point it was decided to increase the number of obelisks and spires, symmetrical from all sides.

Statues high atop the garden wall wave and welcome visitors arriving by boat. The unicorn, with his rider Love, is at the top.
Maybe some of those early travelers missed the point? Maybe I'm missing it? Non lo so. I don't know. My first impression of the island, palace, and gardens, was, and still is, that of a fairy tale, or of Alice in Wonderland. It's a place far removed from reality, and since that was its purpose and original goal, in this way I think it has succeeded quite admirably.

A tour of Isola Bella begins by going through the Palazzo Borromeo, continuing through the grotto, and then into the gardens. The palace contains family hierlooms and treasures, and things of historic note, such as the tapestries in the long Sala di Arezzi, but the objects in the house, while interesting, are of the more normal and expected sort. The garden, with its layers, its tropical plants, its strange pseudo-greek-god theme, its white peacocks, and of course, rising above them all, the unicorn statue, ridden by Love, is the true star.

This is the view that one is greeted with after emerging into the gardens from the grotto passage.

In my mind, perhaps it was Charles Dickens, after visiting in 1844, who summed it up best:

"For however fanciful and fantastic the Isola Bella may be, and is, it still is beautiful."

White peacocks roam free and unafraid in the gardens.

This Dickens quote is used on the official tourism site for the island. On the site, you'll find information on tours, hours, and other facts about this very unique place. The Palazzo Borromeo is open to visitors from late March until the end of October. And it is a must see.

These other posts are related to Isola Bella or the other Borromean Islands, and may be of interest:


Web site: www.borromeoturismo.it

All photographs property of Dana Kaplan or the Borromeo Turismo Web site.
1690 view is a black and white photo of an oil painting by Gaspar Van Wittel, View of Isola Bella from Stresa, West Side, 1690. Painting and photo property of Gallery Carlo Orsi, Milano.

Thursday, May 21, 2009

Biking, Hiking, Horses, And More

Okay... checklist for today's activities. Bring your mountain bike, your hiking shoes, your pulleys and ropes, and your wetsuit. Oh, and don't forget your saddle. That's because today we'll address some of the more intense outdoor activities available in the area. And for all of these you don't need to look any further than one source, a company called Bicico, which organizes group outings in all the aforementioned sports as well as others.

Bicico is probably best known for their mountain biking equipment and excursions. They are located at the base of the cablecar at the Carciano imbarcadero. Mountain bikers, you rent your equipment, including your safety gear, ride the cableway to the summit of Mt. Mottarone, gear up, and then ride down the mountain to Stresa again. There are paths and groups for all levels, including some pretty extreme ones, not for the timid.

Hiking excursions also meet on Mt. Mottarone, with it's stunning views. But there are others, in the Parco Nazionale della Val Grande, the Natural Park of Veglia-Devero, and from Ossola to Val Vigezzo, lesser known but beautiful valleys.

Rock climbing novices can practice in groups with expert instructors at Parco Sasso, where the practice boulders are pink and grey limestone.

The wetsuit we brought with us today was for canyoning, which is a lot like white water rafting, except without the raft.
The gentler trails of Mottarone and the valleys are perfect for horseback riding. Again, whether you are a beginner or a seasoned rider, there's group for you, or lessons can be arranged.


Ready to go then? Here's the English homepage for Bicico: http://www.mountainbikeitaly.eu/. And, you really don't need to bring any equipment with you. Bicico will provide you with all that you need. All you need to bring is your enthusiasm.

Not exhausted? Want to try another sport? Return to the Top Ten Sports and Outdoor Activities List here.

All photos courtesy of Bicico Web site.

Wednesday, May 20, 2009

News Bites -- Little Bits Of News From Stresa

Just enough news to digest with a cup of cappuccino...

There are big plans for Stresa's lakefront. According to Stresa's Mayor, Canio Di Milia, plans are falling into place for the construction of a pool, to be located at the Carciano imbarcadero. Other plans call for the extension of the lungolago path to the Villa Aminta Hotel, increased parking at the zoo, and the renovation of the minigolf park, including a new beach area.

The Regina Palace Hotel has announced a summer schedule of free concerts, several times each week, in the Nuova Sala Tiffany. Check the events schedule on the right column of this blog for the exact dates and times.

The Thursday farmers market is open again in Verbania, after having been closed for the winter. Slightly different from the other weekly town markets, this market offers local produce to consumers, grown at nearby farms and sold fresh only in its season. This also eliminates the middle man, thus providing shoppers with freshness, low prices, and the satisfaction of helping local producers. Open every Thursday from 8.00 to 13.30, in the parking lot of Via Motta Fiume.


Stresa will again participate in the national competition called "Comune Fioriti," in which homeowners, shopkeepers, and the city itself register their properties and pledge to decorate with flowers their balconies, terraces, gardens, businesses, even just flowerpots in doorways, all with the motive of offering to all a more beautiful city.

A wonderful article about Stresa's own Marco Aghemio, in Yacht Digest magazine. The magazine featured Marco and the work he does in the cantiere he founded seven years ago. Marco specializes in the restoration and maintenance of wooden motor boats, most specially the Riva Ariston line. Think 1950s, think George Clooney, think polished wood and turquoise seats, and you've got the idea. If this is your kind of boat you can contact Marco at: Cantiere Aghemio Marco, via per Binda 6, 28838 Stresa (VB), tel. 347 9202648, fax+39/02-7004411077 Internet:www.cantiereaghemio.com e-mail: marcoaghemio@gmail.com.

Thanks, as always, to Stresa 2.0, www.stresaduepuntozero.com, for my news information.

Sunday, May 17, 2009

Antiques And Collectibles


I have nothing against snow globes. Or key chains. Or souvenir shops. Honest. I myself have a collection of souvenir pens that I'm extremely proud of. You know the kind I mean? Where the top part of the pen is filled with some sort of liquid, and something inside, indicative of the place you bought it, slides back and forth? I have over 50 pens, from all around the world, and every last one of them I myself bought at a typical souvenir shop. My point is, though, once you've exhausted your craving for a snow globe or a back scratcher, or whatever it is that you collect, then, stop shopping in those shops. Then, take some time and look, really look at the other stores in Stresa. The first time I did this, I made a conscious effort to not see the usual shops. And a conscious effort to really look at the more unique stores in town.

What did I see? Beautiful items. Unique. Carefully chosen and artfully displayed. Special items. Some expensive and many not. Many old and others new. Any of them would be a special momento indeed...

In the hopes of encouraging you to do the same, here are a few of the shops selling antiques and collectible items in centro Stresa.

Cartolibreria de Mauri, in Piazza Cadorna, specializes in handcrafted writing goods and collectibles from the middle of the twentieth century. The back wall of his window is covered in samples of his papers. Outside the shop, in the piazza, he has racks set up of prints both old and new, of the lake. Stationery from here would make a great gift for someone, wouldn't it? Or how about a metal tin to keep your restaurant cards, receipts, and brochures in?

Terra e Fuoco means Earth and Fire, which are the necessary elements to create what they specialize in, pottery and ceramics from many different regions in Italy. The selection always changes, based upon what they find, and you can buy just one piece, or an entire set. Terra e Fuoco is on Via P. Tomaso, 4, very close to the lake.


I really liked this collection of antique corkscrews at Epoque, on Via Pittore Luigi Bolongaro. These were reasonably priced, small, and I thought what a cool gift for a wine lover, or to display on your own wine rack. In his other window, Epoque's owner had a similarly impressive display of old coffee grinders. And on his front door, a sign that if you didn't see him, perhaps he was working in the laboratory. Or, it said, you could go and ask for him at Bar Bolongaro.


This is one of the windows at Antiques and More, on Via P. Tomaso. In addition to a constantly changing offering of estate and antique jewelry they also sell paintings, bronzes, and furniture.


All of these shops are located right in centro Stresa. And they represent only a few on the fun and fine vendors selling all sorts of things that aren't snow globes. A couple of other places we've already visited on the blog are Wunder Kammer on Isola Bella, and the Alessi Outlet in Omegna. Check out all the shopping posts here.


Friday, May 15, 2009

Toma Cheese







Toma Alpe Veglia (left) and Toma alle Vinacce di Barolo (right).

Do you like cheese? I like cheese. A LOT. Maybe you remember the eight cheese dinner I attended. Or the wine and cheese course. So imagine my excitement when a friend told me about a cheese shop in Verbania that I was unaware of. La Casera, in the center of Verbania Intra, only a few streets from the Intra imbarcadero and the bus lines. La Casera specializes in Piemontese cheeses. And the most Piemontese of the Piemontese cheeses is Toma.

It is on Alpine meadows, such as this one in northern Piemonte, that Toma is made.

Toma is a cow’s milk cheese is made throughout the Italian Alps. In the past, it often substituted for meat in those isolated regions. And also due to that isolation, many towns developed their own version of Toma; today there are 20 that have been awarded the DOP (Protected Designation of Origin) mark, with the best considered to be those that come from mountain villages around Novara, Vercelli, Biella, Torino, and Cuneo.

To truly be called a Toma, this cheese should be produced in the classic manner. The milk comes from Alpine cows, often the Bruna cow, which grazes at high altitudes in the mountain meadows. The farmer who tends his cows on these fields carefully oversees their grazing, he milks the cows, and he produces his own Toma in that same location. The cheese is then seasoned for at least three months and formed into wheels of 15 to 25 centimeters in diameter and a depth of 5 to 10 centimeters. The different varieties of Toma depend upon the length of time that they are left to mature, and the types of seasoning they receive. Young Tomas are sweet and milky, they become more tangy with age.

La Casera carries many varieties of Toma. I counted more than one dozen, and the varieties they sell will change with availability during the seasons. I see a Toma Alpe Veglia, made only in the mountains, only in the summer. Toma del Piode, taking its name from the village in Val Sesia where it is made, and where it is still traditionally served with Polenta Taragna. And Toma alle Vinacce di Barolo, which rests for a month in Barolo grape marcs, picking up its flavor and aroma.

Customers wait to buy cheese at the Friday market in Stresa.

Toma is readily available in the Stresa Friday markets, I've bought delicious chunks of it there. So when here, if you like cheese, like I do, buy a piece of Toma, some bread, some fruit, a bottle of wine, and find a bench on the lungolago for a little Piemontese picnic. And when in Verbania, stop by La Casera to see, learn, and taste more.

I appreciate learning about one thing at a time. Toma per esempio, for example. Then I'll be, not an expert, but knowledgeable at least, about this one thing. I'd like nothing more than to go to La Casera and try and compare several versions of these Toma. Here's the Web site: www.formaggidieros.it They have a wonderful selection and great English descriptions of cheeses.


Wednesday, May 13, 2009

Inbox

So many of my readers are heading to Stresa these days! And with their last minute planning of course they have many questions. Let's look at a few of the most recent ones here, in the hopes they'll be helpful to others.




Q. We are planning to visit Stresa for a week starting 25 May. How is the weather around that time?

A. In the past couple of weeks Stresa has had warm weather, but about half of the days have had some rain. The rain hasn't lasted all day... On the clear days it is beautiful. Lovely weather to eat lunch outside, and a little chillier in the evenings. The end of May should continue much the same. You may experience everything from very warm to chilly to rainy. I hope more of the first...


Q. Thanks so much for your informative blog... We arrive June 13th. We have a very modest list of things to do (thankfully, no 'must see it all' travelers among us) but wonder about whether it's necessary to book some outings in advance, like boat trips to the islands (love the idea of lingering on Isola Pescatori!) or the cablecar to Mt. Mottarone. Since we are only in town for the one week we don't want to, uh... miss the boat!

A. Ferry trips to the islands, or the cablecar, cannot be booked in advance. You can buy a ticket earlier in the day for a certain time, if you are worried about it being busy when you want to go, but of course that will mean an extra trip for someone to the station to purchase those tickets. I would however, suggest that you arrive a little earlier for the cablecar in the summer, as it can be crowded... Another thought, with ten of you it may be less expensive to take your own water taxi to the islands.



Q. Is the Oriental Express restaurant [at the Stresa Train Station] a Chinese restaurant?

A: No, The Orient Express serves fare quite traditional for the area -- pizzas and pastas. Its name is a reference to the famous train that ran from Paris to Istanbul. But if you were hoping that it were an Oriental restaurant, don't despair. The Stresa area has several ethnic restaurants of its own; so you can satisfy that craving for sushi or fajitas, even when you're in Italy. Here are three local favorites:

Izumi Japanese Restaurant
C.so Mameli, 191
28921 Verbania (VB)
http://www.izumi.it/

Mikonos Greek Restaurant
Via Tonazzi Camillo, 5
28921 Verbania (VB)
http://www.mikonos.com

OltreConfine Mexican Restaurant
4, Piazza S. Carlo
28832 Belgirate (VB)

Q. As we will be in Stresa for only two days, is it worth going to Locarno??

A. If you will only be in Stresa for two days the YOU MUST stay in Stresa! Save Locarno (which is about an hour away on the Swiss side of Lago Maggiore) for another trip, and spend your two days seeing the islands, one of the famous gardens, or Santa Caterina. See what's here while you're here!

To those of you who have written in to ask questions... I hope that Stresa Sights has been of help to you. And thanks to all those of you who have written with comments and compliments; it's wonderful to know that this is appreciated and enjoyed. Thanks also to my colleague at Stresa's news blog, stresaduepuntozero.com, for continued help and support, and for recently adding Stresa Sights to his blog, so that the Stresiani can also see what we're attempting to do for the city.



Monday, May 11, 2009

If You Had Been Here This Weekend...

If you had been fortunate enough to be in Stresa this past weekend you would have had the opportunity to do, among other things, the following:

You could have heard the Michael Nyman Band at the Palazzo dei Congressi, Saturday at 5 pm, when the celebrated pianist and composer performed Draughtsman’s Contract, Prospero’s Books, Memorial, The Piano, and Mozart 252 as part of the Settimane dei Musicale, the Stresa Festival.

Or...
You could have walked along the lungolago on Sunday, trying and buying foods of the region, during the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago festival, Arts and Flavors Between Mountains and Lake. While strolling you would have tasted cheeses, salamis, honey, olive oils, and other products typically from the area. Yes.. there was wine too...

Or...You could have watched the spectacle in Piazza Marconi on Saturday morning, when, for the first time, the Festa della Polizia di Stato, the Police of the VCO Territory, gave both residents and tourists a chance to see their uniforms, their vehicles, and their machinery up close, and the opportunity to thank them for their constant vigilance and protection.

Or...


Not forgetting the other Festa this weekend, la Festa della Mamma, Mother's Day, you could have found Mom a gift at the arts part of the Arti e Sapori tra Monti e Lago fair, where artists and craftspeople from the region sold handmade jewelry, dolls, ceramics, paintings, and all manner of artworks.

And that's just a portion of what was happening in this one little town, on this one weekend. And if you weren't here, don't worry, next weekend the Israeli Philharmonic Brass Quintet performs at Villa Pallavicino, Eric Dalest will give an organ concert at the Chiesa Sant'Ambrosio, and the Giardino Botanico Alpinia has two days of special exhibits and programs planned.



Friday, May 8, 2009

Lago di Mergozzo


From the top of Mt. Mottarone you can see seven lakes. Lago Maggiore is the largest of course. And the smallest is Lago di Mergozzo. Only 1 1/2 miles long by 1/2 mile wide, this little oval lake is a peaceful little break from the relative hubbub of Stresa and Lago Maggiore, and only minutes away from them.

In fact, there was a time, long ago for us, but not so long ago geologically speaking, when Mergozzo and Maggiore were connected. Mergozzo was the farthest point of the northern arm of Lago Maggiore. Over the ages, repeated flooding of the Toce River deposited sediment that eventually formed a narrow strip of land that cut Mergozzo off from the rest of the lake. Soon Mergozzo was cut off from the Toce as well. This strip of land, geologically an alluvial plain, is where the village of Fondotoce is located today, in between the two lakes, at the southern end of the oval. On the other side of the oval is the town of Mergozzo.

Looking down at the town of Mergozzo, Lago di Mergozzo, and in the distance, Lago Maggiore.

This lake is so small that you can see all of it at once, without even turning your head. Its shape always reminds me of a cameo, and the little town of Mergozzo is a lovely little clasp at its top. Mergozzo has only about 2,500 residents, but swells in the summer with the influx of tourists and campers in the several nearby camping villages.

View of Lago di Mergozzo from the promenade, looking south.

What I like best about Mergozzo is the silence and the stillness. Motorboats are banned from the lake; in fact, I've never seen a boat on it at all, although there are some small rowboats, barca a remi, along the dock. Sometimes I think they're just for show. And the water, it's as smooth as glass. There's a mountain, Monte Orfano, which protects Mergozzo from the strong winds on Lago Maggiore. So while Maggiore has that background sound of waves and wind, of water crashing against the piers and walls, Mergozzo has a calmness that makes one want to whisper.

Via Pallanza is the name of the street that forms the promenade along the lake. There are a nice selection of restaurants, bars, and a few small hotels. At the far end of the curve is a birreria that I like. With its dozens of different beers from around the world, the birreria is a little unusual in wine-loving Italy. But the beer selections are chosen with as much care as the wines, and its terrace is casual and comfortable. And si, they do have wine as well.

From the birreria at the western end of the promenade, at Piazza Cavour, the lights of Mergozzo twinkle.

I love sitting on the tiny lakefront anywhere along this curve; my favorite time is sunset. Go for an aperitivo, and watch the sun go down before dinner. It sets the mood for a truly tranquil evening, because the place does have this sort of Disney World, too-cute-to-be-true feel about it.

At Piazza Cavour.

Mergozzo is best reached by car. Take a look at the map below and you see that one drives right past Lago di Mergozzo, over the alluvial plain, on the way to and from Verbania from Stresa. But you can't see it. And you won't see it unless you take the little detour off the main road, for just a couple of miles, and discover this little jewel hidden behind the mountain.

From Stresa you can also reach Mergozzo by train, the train for Domodossola stops in Mergozzo, and by bus, by switching buses in Verbania.



Arial photo courtesy of Commune di Mergozzo.

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